Direct or substantive dyes are a special class of dyes which
penetrate cellulosic fibers readily and have good affinity for these fibers
due to their size and shape. Whereas acid dyes are large and bulky, direct
dyes are long, narrow, and flat in molecular structure, which allows them
to readily enter the cellulose structure and interact with the cellulose in
such a way as to provide good fiber affinity. Direct dyes often contain
one or more azo groups connecting aromatic chromophores, thereby providing
a straight chain dye molecule. Since charge development is not a primary
consideration in diffusion of direct dyes onto cellulosics, the dyes are
usually applied from basic solutions in which cellulosics are more stable
and more likely to swell.
Direct dye s fall into three main categories. Class A direct dyes
level well even in the presence of high salt concentrations, while Class B
direct dyes have poor leveling properties which can be improved by proper
adjustment of sal t concentration. Class C dyes have poor level ing properties, but exhaust well on raising the temperature of the dyebath in the
absence of salt. The direct dyes are reasonably colorfast on cellulosic
fabrics, but fastness can be improved by mordanting with metal salts, cationic fixing agents, or formaldehyde or through reaction with diazonium
compounds or diazotization of the dye and reaction with a coupl ing com-
pound.
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